Lesi siqeshana sithathelwe kwesithi Dressing Up: Women Influencing French Fashion (MIT Press), eyashicilelwa okokuqala yi-MIT News Reader futhi yaphinde yashicilelwa lapha ngemvume.
Abaholi bengqephu bayaqhubeka nokuqinisa imizamo yabo ngemuva kokuthi i-COP26 icele umhlaba wonke ukuthi uthathe izinyathelo ngokushintsha kwesimo sezulu. U-Chloé ube wuphawu lokuqala lokunethezeka ukuzuza “isimo se-B Corporation” esifiselekayo futhi manje usenaso leso sigxivizo sokugunyazwa, okubonisa ukuzibophezela kwayo ekwehliseni umnotho. umthelela wayo kubantu neplanethi ngokusebenzisa amandla avuselelekayo kanye nezinto ezitholakala ngokuziphatha, phakathi kwezinkulungwane zezinye izinhlelo zomonakalo.I-Worn Wear Centre e-Patagonia ihola umkhakha wezingubo zohwebo kodwa ezisasebenziseka. ” Izinkampani ezintshontshayo i-ThredUp (eyasungulwa ngo-2009), i-Poshmark (eyasungulwa ngo-2011) kanye ne-The RealReal (eyasungulwa ngo-2011) .Imisebenzi efakwe ohlwini, zontathu zinokukhula okuphezulu, kodwa hhayi inzuzo ephezulu okwamanje.
Ngaso leso sikhathi, abezindaba zemfashini, kanye ne-WWD ikakhulukazi, balandelela izimangalo zomgunyathi zemikhiqizo ewubukhazikhazi njengomqeqeshi wezenzo okuthiwa uyazi ezitholwe zicekela phansi inqwaba yezikhwama ezingaphelele esikhundleni sokuzilungisa noma ukuphinda ziziphindiselele. bahlaze, kuyilapho amaphokhakhakhasta ekala ukuwina kwemikhiqizo futhi egeji.Intatheli yemfashini u-Amy Odell, umbhali wencwadi yezindaba ezimele ethi “Back Row”, ugxile ezimangalweni zenkampani ezingamanga. Ezibikezelweni zakhe zika-2022: “Izimangalo 'zokusimama' zizoqhubeka nokuthathwa. ngokungathi sína, nakuba maduzane bezobhekana nemithetho eqinile e-US” Waphawula ukuthi “kulo nyaka i-FTC izobuyekeza Izinkombandlela zayo ‘eziluhlaza’,” okuhloswe ngazo ukusiza abakhangisi bagweme ukwenza izimangalo zemvelo ezidukisa abathengi.”
Njengoba “ukuthenga okusekelwe enanini” kanye “nokusimama kokukhethwa kwemikhiqizo” kwanda, manje isikhathi esihle sokubona ukuthi lezi zinqubo zihambisana kanjani nemikhuba yakudala.Ingabe imizamo yamanje yabaklami kanye nabathengi ihlangana kanjani nokhokho babo bemfashini (njengeMaison Félix kanye neHouse of Worth) kanye namakhasimende abo anolwazi lwamazwe ngamazwe?Yini esingayifunda ekuzibophezeleni kwekhulu le-19 ekusebenziseni kabusha nasekukhuphuleni amabhayisikili, ikhwalithi phezu kobuningi?
Ngasekupheleni kwekhulu le-19, imfashini yesiFulentshi kwaba ukuthengwa okunethezeka okukhulu kwabesifazane baseMelika abacebile. Abesifazane abachitha izinkulungwane zamaRandi bethenga izingubo zesiFulentshi bakhulisa utshalomali lwabo ngokubuyisela kabusha - bagqoke izikhathi eziningi phakathi nezinkathi zonyaka noma iminyaka, ngokungafani nalokho. benza ngobucwebe babo obuyigugu kakhulu Akukho okwehlukile.Bangagqoka ingubo ngendlela yayo yasekuqaleni, bayiphakamise kabusha, noma baqashe umenzi wokuqala noma umthungi wendawo ukuze ayilungise kabusha.Le mikhuba ibonisa ukugcizelela kwezindwangu zikanokusho futhi igxilile. esikweni lasebukhosini baseYurophu.Njengoba isazi-mlando kanye nomlondolozi u-Kate Strastin echaza Ngaphakathi kwe-Royal Wardrobe: Umlando Wokugqoka weNdlovukazi u-Alexandra, u-Alexandra, iNkosazana yaseWales, umthungi wakhe u-Lady Liz kanye nenkampani baguqule ingubo yakhe yomshado eyenziwe eBrithani yaba ingubo yakusihlwa. Ngo-March 1863, ezinsukwini ezimbalwa ngemva komshado wakhe no-Edward VII.insimbi e-Waverley Ball eLondon ngo-1871.Ingubo inelebula le-Elise futhi igcinwe namuhla Eqoqweni Lezingubo Zomkhosi Wasebukhosini e-Kensington Palace.
UMary Endicott Chamberlain wayegqoke ingubo yesilika eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka ephaphathekile ye-House of Worth eneleyisi, ubuhlalu kanye nevelvet ezenzakalweni ezimbili ezihlukene zasenkantolo eLondon ngoMashi nangoJulayi 1893. kanti owesibili kwakuwumshado kaDuke noDuchess base-York (kamuva owaba yiNkosi uGeorge V kanye neNdlovukazi uMary). Ujwayele ukuthumela izingubo zakhe ze-Worth endlini yemfashini ukuze alungise, njengoba enza lapho efuna i-Van Dyke lace. ikhola engutsheni ye-satin ebomvu.
Ekuqaleni kwawo-2000, abesifazane bezinga eliphezulu eMelika bamukela isibonelo sasebukhosini sokubuyisela izingubo zokugqoka.Lapho u-Elizabeth Patterson waseBaltimore eshada noJerome Bonaparte ngo-1803, wayegqoke ingubo efekethisiwe ye-muslin emhlophe, aseyigqokile izikhathi eziningana kusukela ngaleso sikhathi.Ingubo yesiFulentshi kaNancy Fowler McCormick , manje eqoqweni le-Chicago Historical Society, ikhombisa izimpawu zokugqokwa kabusha.Waya emicimbini eminingi yenhlalo nomyeni wakhe, usozigidi uCyrus Hall McCormick, futhi wagqoka i-Worth gown emshadweni wendodana yakhe ngo-1904.
Izingubo eziningi zekhethelo ziba amafa, zibhalwe encwadini yefa, bese kuba yizindlalifa ukuthi zikhethe ukuthi zizozigqoka kanjani, zingashintshiwe noma zingashintshiwe.Encwadini yakhe yesikhumbuzo, u-Alva Vanderbilt Belmont ukhumbula indlela yena nezingane zakubo ababelazisa ngayo itshali loboya bekamela. , kanye nama-tulips kaleyisi ayeshiywe encwadini yakhe yefa yengubo yomshado kamama wabo. Kamuva u-Alva nendodakazi yakhe u-Consulo basebenzisa ileyisi engutsheni yabo yomshado. Ngokufanayo, ngo-1883, isazi sokusiza abantu uCaroline Louisa Williams ongumFulentshi waseBoston, Massachusetts, sathenga ingubo eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka ngokumnyama. isudi yevelvet ene-chinchilla fur trim kanye nelebula le-Maison Lipman lama-franc angu-1,600. Uhlobo, olwaluphethwe nguMadame Camille Lipman, lwalusebenza eParis ngeminyaka yawo-1880, futhi amakhasimende alo ahlanganisa no-Maria Pia, iNdlovukazi yasePortugal.Eminyakeni engu-37 kamuva, u-Alice Williams Pearse , inzalo yesiFulentshi, isithombe sengubo kanye nesikhwama se-chinchilla, ngaphandle kwejazi, emcimbini wokugubha isichibiyelo seshumi nesishiyagalolunye, lesi sichibiyelo sanikeza abesifazane ilungelo lokuvota.Izingubo nezithombe manje zigcinwe e-Historic New England. U-Orme Wilson Jr. kanye no-Richard Thornton Wilson III banikele ngeqoqo lezingubo zokugqoka e-Metropolitan Museum of Art by Houses of Worth, Doucet, and Paquin, ngokuqhubekayo banikeze umbono wokuthi i-couture ikhule kanjani ngegatsha lomndeni owodwa i-Feel. .Izelamani zakwaWilson zingamadodana kaWilliam Buckhouse Astor Jr. kanye nendodakazi kaCaroline Astor uCarrie.
Emicimbini efana ne-Centennial Ball eyabanjwa ezweni lonke ngo-1876, abesifazane bagunyaze izigqoko ezilingisa lezo ezigqokwa okhokho babo ezithombeni nasezithombeni. Izingubo zokugqoka.Abanye besifazane babesebenzisa izingcezu ezivela eqoqweni labo leleyisi yasendulo ngezikhathi ezihlukahlukene, njengoba kwenza abakwa-Astors, abaqoqa ileyisi yaseFlemish neyesiFulentshi yangekhulu le-18, ezinye zazo eziye zasinda.Emshadweni wendodakazi yakhe uHelen noJames R. Roosevelt Ngo-1878, uCaroline Astor ngokuziqhenya wayegqoke ingubo yevelvet emnyama ene-lace eneminyaka engu-200 ubudala.
Okunye okungasetshenziswa kabusha wudoti osuka kubanikazi uya ezinsizweni zabo noma kubamukeli benhlangano esiza umphakathi. UCaroline Astor unikele ngezingubo esibhedlela sabesifazane, kanti uCornelia Stewart, oshade nomdayisi u-AT Stewart, kuthiwa unikeze owesifazane osemgwaqweni. badinga Umculi imvunulo yasesiteji.Njengoba uDiana de Marley (umbhali wencwadi ethi “History of Haute Couture”) kanye noKate Strastin baye babonisa, lo mkhuba wawuwumphumela womkhuba wasebukhosini baseYurophu wokunikeza ingubo ezimpelesini, iNdlovukazi uVictoria no-Alex Wenze njalo uNkosazana. Sandra.Wales.Okunye ukugeleza ukudayisela abadayisi bamasekeni izingubo zokugqoka, inzalo yohwebo osekuyisikhathi eside lusungulwa eYurophu ngezingubo ezisetshenzisiwe.E-Paris, lokhu kuhweba bekulokhu kukhona kusukela ngekhulu le-13, futhi ngekhulu le-18 kwase kugxile e-Les Halles. .Ngekhulu le-19, amalungu omndeni wasebukhosini ayedayisela abadayisi bezingubo.
Kusukela ekuqaleni kwekhulu le-18, iNgilandi inomlando wokuthengisa izingubo zasebukhosini kanye nezicukuthwane ezindaweni zokushintshana ngezingubo ezindala e-East London, njengoba uJennifer Le Zotte echaza encwadini yakhe ethi From Goodwill to Grunge. ukuhweba ngezandla e-Lower East Side kwagqugquzelwa ukufika kwenani elikhulu labafuduki bamuva baseYurophu phakathi kuka-1880 no-1920, okwakuqhutshwa ngokuyinhloko ngamaJuda anolwazi lokuthengisa nokuthunga.Abanye bakhangiswa emaphephandabeni endawo benikela ngokuthenga izingubo ezilahliwe.Izikhangiso zingadingeka. njengoba abadayisi bebonakala bevinjelwa njalo ukuthenga izingubo ezidayiseni ezisiza umphakathi.Ukulwa nobuJuda kwaqala ukusebenza lapha ngoba ngokomlando amaJuda ayethathwa njengayiwona abusa uhwebo, olwadalwa ngenxa yesidingo lapho evinjelwa emisebenzini yawo futhi esephendukela enqoleni yokuvakasha. ukuthengisa.
Abadlali baba nobuhlakani bokuthi bathole futhi baphathe kanjani izingubo ezibizayo. Lapho umculi we-opera u-Emma Abbott eshona ngo-1891, umlingisikazi uJeanne Kimball wathenga ingubo i-Worth and Félix u-Abbott ayeyigqokile uCarmen eminyakeni embalwa ngaphambili. inkanyezi esiteji.Lapho u-Elena waseMontenegro engakwazi ukusebenzisa izigqoko eziningana ezintsha ze-Félix isikhathi esithile ekukhaleleni inkosi yase-Italy u-Umberto I eyabulawa ama-anarchists, i-couturier yaqala yazibeka e-Universal Exhibition e-Paris Embukisweni 1900. Ngenkathi ivakashele umbukiso, uFrancesca Redding wancoma ingubo eluhlaza kasilika ne-chiffon egoqwe ngamaqabunga, wayithenga, futhi ngokushesha wayibeka esiteji.Ikhabethe likachwepheshe wezokuhlalisana uMary Rita Wilson-Gollette, elalandelelwa ngokucophelela kuma-invoyisi asekhona, kubikwa ukuthi ladayiselwa eNew York. iklayenti lemidlalo yaseshashalazini u-Eves ngemuva kokushona kwakhe futhi ubegqokwe abalingisi abaningi, ngokusho kwemibiko..Ekugcineni, umlingisi uSadie Martinot wathengisa izingubo zakhe zesiteji i-Worth ne-Félix endalini ngo-May 1894 ngo-$35,000 (ngaphezu kwamaRandi ayizigidi ezingu-1.1 namuhla) .Abadlali baphinde badayisela abadayisi bamasekeni izingubo zabo zasesiteji, njengoba ILANGA labachaza. ngo-1892, "ngeziketi, iziketi, nezingubo zaseBasque kwakulenga izitezi ezintathu noma ezine ezijulile".
Abathengi ezitolo zamasekeni ngabesifazane abasezingeni eliphakathi izingubo zabo ezizohlala iminyaka.U-Hannah Ditzler Alspaugh wase-Illinois ubhala kujenali yakhe kanye nezincwadi zakhe ezilahlwe yindwangu izingubo namasudi ayezowaklama kabusha noma “awaklebhule” phakathi neminyaka edlule, kuhlanganise naleyo ayeyigqokile. e-World Columbia Show e-Chicago Suits, ikakhulukazi, ebambe umcimbi ngesikhathi senhlekelele yezimali kazwelonke ka-1893. Ngokuhlela ngokucophelela nokugcinwa kahle, izingubo zingagcinwa futhi zigqokwe njalo. Nakuba imvula, udaka, amabhu kanye nesikhunta kuphakamisa ukukhathazeka okwengeziwe, okuningi- izingubo zangaphansi ezinezingqimba zisebenza njengesithiyo phakathi kwamafutha omzimba nokungcola kanye nenqwaba yengubo.
Umkhuba wokuthola okufunayo bese ukuphinda usebenzise, ukuzungezisa kanye nokushintshisana ngakho kuholele ekutheni imfashini yesiFulentshi isatshalaliswe kabanzi emaqoqweni emhlabeni jikelele.Njengoba u-Strastin ebonisa, ingubo yeNdlovukazi u-Alexandra yathengiswa yi-American Art Association kanye ne-Anderson Art Gallery ngo-1937. , futhi ingxenye yesine yayo yathengwa u-Erin Lewison futhi yathengiswa eMetropolitan Museum of Art Isikole Sezingubo Sasungulwa.
Nakuba lezi zinto ezisetshenziswayo zinokuqaphela okuncane komphakathi ekuqanjweni kwanamuhla—uboya, izimpaphe zezinyoni ezingavamile, ngisho nezigqoko zasekhanda ezinezinhlamvu ze-taxidermy ziyafiseleka—singase sijabulele okuthile okungokwemvelo ngaleso sikhathi, izinqubo zokusebenzisa kabusha ezamukelekayo, kanye nalokho manje esikubiza ngokuthi i-upcycling. Ngaphezu kwalokho ukunethezeka kwemfashini yaseFrance abayithenga, abesifazane baseMelika baletha i-pragmatism ethile emakethe.I-ThredUp, i-Poshmark kanye ne-RealReal ibeka phambili injongo, inweba ngamabomu ubude bokuphila bezingubo njengenketho yomthengi elungile futhi kude nanoma yikuphi ukucwaswa okufiswayo. ngasekupheleni kwekhulu leshumi nesishiyagalolunye, emibuthanweni ephakeme kakhulu yezenhlalo, kwakungekho lutho olususa ukucwaswa.
Ukuze aboleke isikhathi senkampani yokufundisa ngemfashini i-Motif, abesifazane baseMelika abathenga imfashini yesiFulentshi ngasekupheleni kwekhulu le-19 bethula “imodeli eyindilinga lapho ingubo yaklanywa futhi yathuthukiswa ngokusetshenziswa okulandelayo engqondweni”.Thenga ikhwalithi ephezulu.Sebenzisa kabusha, noma unikele .
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entsha(Into(g.timestamp)()+1e4).toUTCString();x.setCookie(o,a,c,”Lax”,t,void 0),x.getCookie (o,ungenalutho 0)= ==a?(n=!1,x.setCookie(o,”,"Thu, 01 Jan 1970 00:00:01 GMT”,void 0,t,void 0)): (i+=-1,n =Math.abs(i)0){t=!0;var r=!1,i=function(){r||(r=!0,e())};Into (g.logInfo)(” “.concat(E,” – 拍卖延迟 “).concat(j,” 最多获取 ids”)),O=setTimeout(i,j),W(n,i)}enye i-caon (laEVENTS.AUCTION_END ,函数 e(){caoff(laEVENTS.AUCTION_END,e),_>0?setTimeout(function(){W(n)},_):W(n)})}e&&!t&e() }函数 K(e,t){H(function(){!function(e,t){[e].some(function(e){buyisela!Array.isArray(e)||!e.length})||e.forEach(function(e){e.bids&&Object(g.isArray)(e.bids)&&e.bids.forEach(function(e){var n=function(e,t){return Array.isArray(e)&&e.长度&&t?e.filter(function(e){return!e.config.bidders||!Object(g.isArray)(e.config.bidders)||v()(e.config.bidders,t)} .filtha(umsebenzi(e){return Object(g.isPlainObject)(e.idObj)&&Object.keys(e.idObj).length}).nciphisa(function(e,t){return Object.keys(t. idObj).forEach(function(n){e[n]=t.idObj[n] }),e},{}):{}}(t,e.bidder);Object.keys(n).ubude&& (e.userId=n,e.userIdAsEids=Object(pb)(n))}) })}(t.adUnits||Object(sa)().adUnits,h);var n=S&&(Q() ||[]).find(function(e){return e.source===S });if(n&&”string”==typeof Object(g.deepAccess)(n,”uids.0.id”) ){var r=n.uids[0].id.replace(/[\W_] /g,"");r.length>=32&&r.length=e.length?{qedile:!0}:{qedile !必须有一个[Symbol.iterator]()方法。”)}var o ,a=!0,c=!1;buyisela{s:function(){n=n.call(e)},n:function( ){var e=n.next();buyisela a=e.qedile ,e},e:umsebenzi(e){c=!0,o=e},f:umsebenzi(){try{a||null==n.return||n.return()}最后{if( c)phonsa o}}}}}(i );zama{for(ss();!(a=sn()).qedile;){var d=a.value;n.length>0&&-1=== n.indexOf(d.submodule.name) ||(Into(g.logInfo)(“”.concat(E,” – 刷新”).concat(d.submodule.name)),Z(d,e,o,!0),$(d), h.length&&N(h),Object(g.isFn)(d.callback)&c.push(d))}} bamba(e){se(e)}ekugcineni{sf()}c.length>0&&W(c ),t&&t()}enye into(g.logWarn)(“”.concat(E,” – gdpr 权限无效对于本地存储或 ikhukhi，退出模块”))})}var Y=Object(fb)(“ ”,function(e,t){return{userIdModules:e,hasValidated:t&&t.hasValidated}},”validateGdprEnforcement” );函数 Z(e,t,n,r){if(e.config.storage){var i,o=M(e.config.storage),a=!1;uma(“inombolo”==typeof e.config.storage.refreshInSeconds){var c=idethi entsha(M(e.config.storage,” okokugcina”));a=c&&Date.now()-c.getTime()>1e3*e.config.storage .refreshInSeconds}!o||a||r||!function(e,t){return null! =n&&n===q(t)}(0,t)?i=e.submodule.getId(e.config,t,o):”function”==typeof e.submodule.extendId&&(i=e.submodule.extendId(e.config,t,o)),Object(g.isPlainObject)(i)&&(i. i-id&&(B(e,i.id),o=i.id),”function”==typeof i.callback&&(e.callback=i.callback)),o&&(e.idObj=e.submodule.decode( o,e.config))}okunye uma(e.config.value)e.idObj=e.config.value;else{var s=e.submodule.getId(e.config,t,void 0);Into( g.isPlainObject)(s)&&(“function”==typeof s.callback&&(e.callback=s.callback),s.id&&(e.idObj= e.submodule.decode(s.id,e.config) ))}}函数$(e){for(var t=!1,n=0;nt?e:t}函数d(e,t,n ){!e.layisha kuqala&&e.preloadThreshold&&function(e,t,n ,i){return t.top=e.shownThreshold&&!e.seen?(e.seen=!0,setTimeout(function(){e.trigger(“显示”,new r(“显示”,t))} ,15)):(!n||i1&&(h+=e(r,Math.floor(n/o),i-1,o)),h },this.getVerticallyVisiblePixels=f,this.getViewportHeight=function( ){return t.innerHeight||e.documentElement.clientHeight||e.body.clientHeight},this.getViewportWidth=function(){return t.innerWidth|| e.documentElement.clientWidth||e.body.clientWidth}, this.isElementNotHidden=u,this.isElementInViewport=function(n){var i=n.getBoundingClientRect();buyisela i.top>=0&&i.left>=0&&i .bottom=o.length) 返回 {完成:真}; : 宇回 { , 值：o[i++] };}, e: 函数 e(_e) { 抛出 _e;}, f: F };} jikijela i-TypeError entsha(“对不可迭代实例的迣代尝了试无效. ，非数组对象必须具有 [Symbol.iterator]() 方法。”);} var normalCompletion = iqiniso, didErr = amanga, iphutha;buyisela {s: umsebenzi s() {it = o[Symbol.iterator](); }, n: 函数 n() { var step = it.next(); normalCompletion = step.done; 返回步骤；}, e: 函数 e(_e2) { didErr = true;错误 = _e2;}, f: umsebenzi f() {zama {uma (!normalCompletion && it.return != null) it.return();} 最后 {uma (didErr) phonsa iphutha;} } };} umsebenzi _unsupportedIterableToArray(o, minLen) {uma (! o) buyisela;uma (uhlobo o === “string”) buyisela _arrayLikeToArray(o, minLen);var n = Object.prototype.toString.call(o).slice(8, -1); uma (n == = “对象” && o.makhi) n = o.constructor.name;uma (n === “Imephu” ||n === “Setha”) buyisela i-Array.from(o); uma (n === “参数” || /^(?:Ui|I)nt(?:8|16|32)(?:Kucishiwe )?Array$/.test(n)) buyisela _arrayLikeToArray(o, minLen);} 函数 _arrayLikeToArray(arr, len) { uma (len == null || len > arr.length) len = arr.length;for ( var i = 0, arr2 = i-Array entsha(len); i
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Jan-19-2022